Blackwater Men
by Arthur & Michael Emmett in 1992
This
book was written by a father and son who were Maldon boat owners, charterers
and fishermen, and recalls their many experiences between 1920 and 1990. Most
of the 170 page book refers to their boat owing and chartering experiences.
However about 50 pages of the book cover commercial fishing from the 1960s to
the 80s and contributes significantly to our knowledge of this activity in the Blackwater during the period. Here are some small
extracts...
I
began to learn the secrets of the fishermen at the age of ten when, two weeks
before Christmas 1962, I went down
river with Cliff Claydon in a skiff to pick winkles for the first time. I was told to
stay on the gravel while he put on his splatchers and
worked off in the pan-ways of the mud. Splatchers are
nine inch square wooden plates which are strapped to the feet to prevent
sinking. We returned to Maldon on the flood tide after dark and I remember
being bitterly cold...
My
next trip with him was in the spring and because the tide was very early we had
to bike down. This meant lashing sacks onto the carrier of the bicycle and
hanging the bucket on the handle bars. I met Cliff at his cottage on the Hythe
at about 5.30am and we set off for Goldhanger,
six miles distant. Passing down Fish Street we mounted the sea wall and rode
round it another mile until we reached some gorse bushes where we hid the
bicycles. We went over the sea wall into Wagers Creek to pick up winkles near
the Old Sinker. Once bagged up, we carried them on our shoulders up to the
bicycles, strapped them onto the carriers and the long haul home began. I did
this many times but it never appealed like the trips in the skiff...
Dredging
for oysters would continue until
the first frosts of winter made the ground hard and stopped the dredges from
cutting into the culch properly. This, coupled with the shorter days led most
fishermen to go winkling. The lowly winkle played a great part in the yearly
cycle of some of the fishermen. Starting in October and finishing in April, the
winkling season
represented more or less half the working year. During this time the man would
be bent double for up to six hours a day, straightening only to load the skiff
or bicycle for the long haul
home which could be six or seven miles on the road or an equally hard row on
the water.
At
the Stumble which is to the
north of Osea
Island, there is an obstacle called The Causeway
that joins the island to the mainland. It meanders across the mud, bisecting
the creek. The barrier could only be crossed by skiff at about half tide which
made it impossible to work in one day. One way to get around this problem was
to bike down and leave the bagged up winkles
on a buoy line, to be picked up on the high water with the smack. It was just
possible under motor to leave Maldon as soon as she was afloat, get over the
hard, pick up the bags and return in time to moor before the tide ebbed away.
Another way was to row down, saving water over the hard on the ebb and leave the skiff anchored. The only other way was to
circumnavigate the island, but this was a journey of nearly three times the
distance.
The
closed season for shellfish,
as laid down by the borough council's licence, was from 15th June to 31st July
each year. The licence stipulated that no rights were to be exercised except
the right to catch "floating fish with hook and line, soles,
flounders, mullet,
skate, thornback
and garfish by net". The
water at this time of year always went "as clear as gin" and much
weed and jellyfish floated up and down on the tide, which made trawling
ineffective. At night the water was said to be "on fire". This was
caused by microscopic organisms emitting phosphorescence which illuminate fishing
gear almost as if it were plugged into mains electricity. This was a time when
some of the men went onto the land for work or unloaded the steamboats. Others
practised net work, such as Peter-netting, eel and
mullet dragging, grubbing and babbing, which was not so badly affected by these problems.
When
the summer holidays came around I was once again with Cliff. This time it was Peter-netting for flounders.
We rowed down the river to the Low-way by the North Doubles buoy where we laid
to anchor while Cliff stood in the stern sheets of the skiff and laid the net
out ready to shoot. The net was said to have gained its name from the disciple
who used one on the Sea of Galilee
nearly 2000 years ago. It was an anchored net, with anchors at both
ends, which was shot across the tide to open it...
Live
fish were put into a trunk.
This was a small boat-shaped object with a lid on it and holes bored through,
so that it floated semi-submerged in order to keep the fish inside alive. The
trunk had to be towed home which was hard work owing to the fact that it had to
be rowed slowly so as not to drown the inmates. Dozens
of trunks could be seen moored off in
the Blackwater "Bath Hole",
where they would float even when the tide was out...
Maldon
in those days was a favourite destination for trippers in charabancs and this
was the market for flounders.
They were sold strung on a wire, three small ones for half a crown, whilst a
"big-un" would fetch two shillings for a single fish. There were
about a dozen men in this trade and they could be seen in the afternoon sitting
on the head of their skiffs, with the trunk
alongside and a sign up which simply read: 'LIVE FISH FOR SALE'. Although they
were only flounders, they had adopted the name Blackwater Plaice
for selling purposes...
Grubbing and babbing
must be among the most simple and ancient forms of fishing. Grubbing was the
catching of flounders by hand. The man
would stir the mud upstream so as to thicken the colour of the water then,
starting downstream, he would gradually work his way up against the flow of the
tide feeling the bottom until a flounder was located. Holding it down with his
thumbs, he would slide his fingers under the body and it then lift the fish
into a purse net hanging from his belt.
Eels were caught by babbing.
This rod and line operation involved no hooks but the bait of lug or garden
worms was threaded long-ways onto about 18 inches of worsted with a special
long needle. This was then curled twice and tied onto a line along with a lead
weight. A short stick acted as the rod and the line was simply rolled around
the end of the stick so there was no need for a reel...
The
fisherman would sit in a low sided punt, hanging the line over the side until
the weight touched the ground. He would then raise it slightly and the eel, passing on up the river on the early
flood, would bite on the worms entangling his teeth on the worsted. The
fisherman, feeling a tug on the line, would lift it into the punt and knock the
eel off into the bottom. A day's babbing might start as far down as the
shoals at Millbeach, working the first
of the flood up through the Basin Flat, Smack Hole, the Bath Hole, on up to the
Bridge Hole and Beeleigh. Constant moves of anchorage in this way meant that
the depth of water could be kept to a minimum...
A
herring net
hangs like a curtain in the water and is allowed to drift with the tide, the
fish “gilling” into the mesh. The gear would be shot
at about half ebb, if working in the river, to be stood by until it had drifted
down to low water and then back up with the flood. It was hauled in by hand
over whichever side suited the wind direction. Once on board, the net would be
pulled over a pole suspended from the top of the wheelhouse reaching forward to
be lashed to the mast, parallel to the deck. Shaking the net as it was pulled
over, the fish would drop to the deck leaving just a few that had to be picked
out by releasing their gills from the mesh. It was mainly herring
in the catch sometimes whiting,
mackerel, gurnards,
smelts, garfish
and even the odd cod or mullet were taken...
One
trip produced 210 stones
of fish which the haulier and fish merchant, Richard Hayward of West
Mersea, took to Colby 's at
Lowestoft market where they made for each seven stone box. It was a remarkable
increase in earnings considering we had been winkling for £25 per week each.
Sometimes when fish were caught on a Saturday night it meant that the boat
would be alongside Maldon Quay on Sunday morning with the catch on
deck. One particular Sunday I had phoned the haulier to come and pick-up the
fish and when I got back to the boat where I found the crew selling dozens and
half dozens of herrings at a time to people
on the quay. They had almost run out of newspaper to wrap the fish in so I went
up the hill to where I lived to fetch some more...
In
the early spring the herring
spawned on the Eagle Bank
between Brightlingsea
and Clacton where large
quantities were taken in a very short space of time. Working on the high water,
the net would sometimes have to be hauled almost as soon as it was shot because
it would sink with the weight of fish. Hauls of many
tons were common...
The
net for mullet is similar to a
herring net in that it is a sheet of netting, but that is where the resemblance
ends. The 150 yards of continual netting with a three inch mesh has a head line
with corks and a heavy leaded line 12 feet below it. The gear is shot in a
semicircle. Starting from the water's edge, it is rowed out and back and the
net is then pulled ashore. I found mullet dragging a most exhilarating job because
you are in close contact with the fish. It becomes a contest between you and
them and sometimes they won...
We
were working in the shoals at Millbeach
one night when so many fish hit the downriver wing, it could not be held. The
shoal took the net out into deeper water where they were able to escape. It was
an amazing sight to see several yards of net rise out of the water with jumping fish...
While
we were waiting for the last of the tide to ebb away, we noticed mullet fish swimming around us and, as luck
would have it, we had the drag in the stern sheets of the skiff. We made two
shots filling Alan's massive skiff up to the thwarts with a mixture of mullet and bass.
This time we were in the right place at the right time with the right gear.
More often the net would be laid out and then the search for fish would begin,
travelling sometimes miles in and out of
creeks and investigating various spits until fish were seen to
move...
Mullet jump, a
bit like salmon,
or turn and leave a whirlpool in the water. The marks they left on the mud made
when their split lips and under fins touched the mud were an indication to
where they had been feeding on the previous tide, The marks look as if somebody
has drawn two fingers, slightly apart, across the surface for about two to
three inches...
Over-fishing led to the downfall of the trade. A total ban at one time put many boats out of
business, then small quotas and restricted
seasons made it uneconomic for those left, even after the Ministry of
Agriculture, Fisheries and Food lifted the ban. Maldon as a trawling station
had been dying since the Second World War,
mainly because of growing pollution
coming down the rivers from inland towns and the dumping
of high explosives in the estuary after the war...
By
the end of the 1950s most of the
fishermen were concentrating on the dredging of oysters
and gathering winkles. The major factor in
the decline of trawling was that the commercial
fishing grounds were getting further and further to seaward as
Maldon was as far inland as the long Blackwater
estuary could put her...
Fishing
was not just a job, it was a total way of life and it set them aside. The
language spoken would be described by most people as an accent, but this is
only part of the truth. It was actually a complete dialect. In their offshore
remote world, the fishermen had unknowingly protected Viking, Anglo-Saxon and
Huguenot words and sayings. Landsmen of Essex, being infiltrated by
interlopers, as the fishermen called anybody from outside Maldon, had lost
their speech origins long ago...
Gleaning
a living from any form of fishing is a precarious business because you really
are only as good as your last trip. Blank times, gear losses and fickle markets
meant that there was no such thing as an ordinary day's work because you never
knew when the work would evaporate or when the next opportunity would arise. So
the pace of work on a good day would be as if it were the last for some time -
even if it were not. The blank times or days of bad weather were called “days
to the King”' - the royal variety - and they bred philosophical, eternally
optimistic characters...
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